| 摘要: | 中藥化粧品之發展隨著時代及環境需要，有日趨蓬勃的趨勢，中醫藥知識為幾千年來累積的經驗和理論知識，歷代中醫藥典籍，收載了很多古代醫藥專家的智慧結晶，是研究的珍貴資料，歷代諸家中醫藥典籍，對中醫藥美容的記錄很多，但尚未見有以電腦從古代典籍來整理研究的專題。本研究自典籍文獻彙集整理出中醫美容之記載，並藉以篩選出具開發潛力之可使用於化粧品之中草藥品項及方劑，以體外抗氧化研究及人體皮膚測試加以驗證。
本研究實驗部分探討新疆紫草(Arnebia euchroma (Royle) Johnst.)及紫草(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb. et Zucc.)根部之水及甲醇萃取物之抗氧化活性；以Trolox總抗氧化能力、DPPH染色法、清除DPPH自由基能力、還原力及進行總多酚類、類黃酮類及黃酮醇類成分含量測定等項目，以了解其抗氧化作用與這些成分含量之間的關係。在Trolox總抗氧化能力與還原力部份，新疆紫草的萃取物其作用都明顯較紫草的能力為強；其中，甲醇萃取物的作用能力較水萃取物為佳。對DPPH自由基清除，新疆紫草的活性亦較紫草為佳，但與所萃取的溶劑無相關性，其清除DPPH自由基的能力以依序為新疆紫草水萃取物最高。不同的萃取方法，以甲醇萃取物中所含的總多酚、類黃酮和黃酮醇等含量較水萃取物為多，新疆紫草的含量又略高於紫草。本研究證明新疆紫草之抗氧化活性大於紫草，且其活性表現與兩者所含總多酚類、類黃酮類和黃酮醇類多寡可能有關。
在紫草配方產品之人體皮膚測試中，以使用含紫草萃取物(Lithospermum erythrorhizon extracts, LES)之乳劑為試驗組，不含紫草萃取物之單純乳劑者為對照組，在施用對照組及空白組乳劑一段短時間後，皮膚水合化之增加百分比顯示具有時間及劑量相關性，施用後4小時LES 1.00%，LES 2.50%，LES 5.00%及空白組之可達最大增幅。施用28天後亦呈現同樣時間及劑量之正相關增加趨勢。在角質細胞對水分之屏障效能上，以水分測定儀(Tewameter)量測經以硫酸月桂酸鈉處裡過後之皮膚，可見到實驗組比對照組之間表皮水分散失量(Transepidermal water loss, TEWL)的增加。在短期使用含LES乳劑實驗組及對照組後，皮膚TEWL value (%)之降低具有時間及劑量之相關性。施用28天後亦呈現同樣時間及劑量之相關減少趨勢。表示LES在增加皮膚屏障作用上扮演重要角色。
The Chinese herb containing cosmetic products have been increasing in the market. Certainly, it is necessary to have evidence to prove the formulation, safety, usage and effectiveness of Chinese herb-containing cosmetics. The safety and effectiveness of Chinese herb-containing cosmetics can be confirmed by the modern research technics, but the records from ancient literatures or textbooks were one of the feasible methods. In this study, we try to establish a model to develop Chinese herb-containing cosmetic products. In the first part of this study, we reviewed the ancient literatures to provide list of Chinese herbs for use in cosmetic formulations.
In the second part of this study, we choose the Zicao (Arnebia euchroma (AE) and Lithospermum erythrorhizon (LE)) to evaluate the antioxidant activities of aqueous and methanolic extracts of the roots of AE and LE by Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC) test, DPPH staining test, Free radical scavenging capacity (RSC), and reducing power method. We also analyzed their content of the total phenolic compounds, flavonol, and flavonoids to illustrate the correlation between contents and antioxidant activities. This study provides the evidence that the antioxidant activities of AE were greater than LE. Furthermore, the antioxidant activities of AE and LE were also closely related to the contents of total polyphenols, flavonoids and flavonols.
According to the literatures, retention of water in the stratum corneum of skin epidermis plays an important role in regulation of skin function. Loss of water may decline skin appearance gradually and lead to irregular skin disorders. The root extract of LE is known for its anti-bacterial, anti-tumor, anti-inflammatory, and free radicals scavenging activity. However, the potential skin care effect of LE is not clear. The third part of this study was to evaluate the moisturizing efficacy and skin barrier repairing activity of LE. The preliminary results indicated that LE show slight moisturizing effect on skin hydration and significant skin repairing capacity by decreasing the value of transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The skin irritated effects induced by sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) were inhibited by treatment with LE after SLS stimulation. It is suggested that LE treatment is probably benefit for protection of skin barrier. |
